Château de Montségur – Europe’s Machu Picchu?

Both are engineering marvels perched improbably on rocky outcrops among soaring peaks. Both belonged to mysterious peoples, destroyed by fervent Christian aggression. Both harbor incredible stories of an enigmatic past. One, Machu Piccu, located in the South American Andes you have probably heard of. The other, the Château de Montségur, found in the south-west of France, you have probably never come across.

Looking up to Château de Montségur from the beginning of the vertical path to the peak

Looking up to Château de Montségur from the beginning of the vertical path to the peak.

It is perhaps surprising that the château enjoys relative obscurity today as it played host to one of the bloodiest, most remarkable events in medieval Europe. It was here, after a nine month siege, that the final members of the Cathar faith were dramatically and brutally burned alive in March 1244. The Cathars thrived in this part of France that we now know as the Languedoc/Midi-Pyrénées regions during the 12th and first half of the 13th century. It is an area of outstanding beauty with vast and verdant vineyards stretching across the horizon. Castles such as Montségur and Peyrepertuse haunt the rugged mountains like Cathar ghosts of a militaristic and dangerous past. They teeter on spindly precipices, sometimes making you squint as they blend in so organically to the mountains they adorn.

The Cathar castle of Roquefixade perched on the hillside

The Cathar castle of Roquefixade perched on the hillside.

It was this expansion and success that would also lead to the Cathar downfall. The Cathars were Christians, but their dogma dramatically differed with what the Pope in Rome had in mind for the church, the church he felt was his to command by right of God. The Cathars believed in dualism; that the spiritual world was created by God, but the material world, including the human body itself, was created by Satan. This world view disagreed with the Papacy’s monotheistic view, that God was the sole, divine creator. In a world where crusading fervour had hit fever pitch in Western Europe, and the Pope’s power was waning in the Middle East, this was enough for the Pope to take drastic action to consolidate his power base in Europe.

In 1208, when Pope Innocent III’s papal legate was murdered whilst preaching Catholicism in Southern France, he obtained his excuse to launch the Alibigensian Crusade. One by one, the forces loyal to the French King claimed the Cathar strongholds and fortresses until only Château de Montségur remained. When climbing up the mountainside to reach the remnants of the fortress today, it is easy to see why. Just reaching the summit in hiking shoes and light clothes is something of an effort, over jarring rocks and along a slippery, vertiginous trail. The prospect of marching an army up there, replete with armour and weaponry is an audacious prospect.

A wall of Château de Montségur can be seen in the top right of the picture, showing what a commanding the castle occupies.

A wall of Château de Montségur can be seen in the top right of the picture, showing what a commanding position the castle occupies.

This is perhaps why the first siege led by Count Raymond VII of Toulouse failed altogether, resulting in the death of fifty members of the Pope’s inquisition. The Crusaders were not going to fail again, arriving with 10,000 men to besiege the castle held by only 100 Cathar soldiers and 211 Cathcar perfects whom were pacifists and did not fight. The epic nine month siege, as heroic as Leonidas’ defence at Thermopylae, ended with the surrender and mass burning of some 220 Cathars who refused to renounce their faith.

The stunning view from the top of Château de Montségur.

The stunning view from the top of Château de Montségur.

However, the story does not end there. Before the fortress fell, some Cathars were noted to have used a secret exit to transport a valuable treasure out of the Château. Many have speculated that this treasure may have been something valuable to the Cathar faith, some sacred books on dogma or relics perhaps. A few believe that it was in fact the Holy Grail itself, smuggled to a secret place in the surrounding mountains.

Whether you go there to ponder Christian theology, take in the medieval architecture and glorious views, or search for the Holy Grail itself, a trip to the final bastion of Cathar resistance, the Château de Montségur, provides a fascinating insight into this intriguing period of history.

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The awesome sight of the high Pyrenees.

Off the grid in the Pantanal

The distances in Brazil are vast. It is less like a country and more like a continent. After seemingly endless travel we eventually arrived at the Pantanal from the town of Foz do Iguacu. Long straight roads passed scenery that would not be out of place in a Sergio Leone western. Gradually becoming more rugged, the final two hours were spent bumping along a dirt road, passing over bridges that were built to allow for a dramatic rise in water during the wet season. This was truly wild country. The only people that inhabit this vast part of the country are Pantaneiros, cowboys that make a living from huge ranches. With few local amenities and such a harsh, ever changing environment, this is and always was a land for tough guys. A historically untameable part of the globe, gold seeking fortune hunters were the first to venture into these parts.

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The very remoteness and isolation that keeps this land largely uninhabited, also preserves it as an area of great biodiversity. Famed land of the jaguar, the Pantanal is a store house of classic South American and Amazonian animals. Seeing the bright red tail feathers of a macaw flying above or a banana shaped beak of a toucan emerge from foliage became normality. We took for granted the stunning and extremely endangered hyacinth macaws squabbling amongst each other in trees. Perhaps the prime animal viewing was down a local river. We slowly motored along in the early hours of the morning, spotting predatory birds like eagles and hawks like sentries in the treetops. Caiman filled the riverbanks, basking in the sun or waiting slack jawed for piranha to pass before exploding into sudden, urgent life and attempting to snatch them from the water. The largest rodents in the world, capybara, meandered past, thickset with overhanging teeth but surprisingly lean, deer like hind legs. Our crowning moment was when a family of giant river otters swam right by us. The kings of these waterways and one of the rarest animals on the continent, it was incredible to witness the sheer force and prowess of these animals darting in and out of the water, out manoeuvring our boat at every turn.

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Our meal one night was fresh piranha from the river, fished by ourselves. Using remarkably primitive fishing poles made up of a bamboo cane, wire, hook and meat, we stood on the river bank casting our lines into the water. Almost instantaneously there was a pull on the line, testament to the sheer quantity of fish in the water, hungry for food in the low rivers of the dry season. As we pulled the line up, the meat was often absent from the hook, quickly snatched away by sharp fangs. Sometimes a piranha would also be on the end, but would slip off the hook as we brought the line in. However, every now and then a piranha would be hooked and we could raise the line fully and grab the fish at the body. Great care had to be taken to unhook the fish. Still chomping away, they were a hazard even outside of the water. Like a relic from the age of dinosaurs, pearly dead eyes stared up at me as I grabbed the outside of the hook at the cheek of the fish and slowly removed the barb from the its mouth. With the barb released, the fish was freed and turning its head to the side while gnashing its terrible fangs, narrowly missed a chunk from my finger in its final throes of life. Scrawny and bony, the fish never the less made for a meaty tasting meal when fried that evening.

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The Pantanal was not without its discomforts. We camped by river, meters away from caiman which we heard hunting for piranhas in the night. Both caiman and snakes were seen outside of our tent at various points of the day. The intense heat and humidity and lack of facilities to dry and clean either ourselves or our clothes meant that a constant layer of grime covered our skin and belongings. Even our sleeping bags felt dirty, meaning that we could not even find salvation at night in our sleep. What a relief it was to return to civilisation and get things clean. Even more of a relief was the deliverance from mosquitoes an urban centre provided.

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In the Pantanal the mosquitoes swarmed around us like a biblical plague. They carpeted my shirt in a writhing mass, crawling over the material in search of entry to bare skin. Every now and then, a particularly monstrous example of a mosquito, so gigantic in size that it caused me to double take, would make its landing. I batted these away ferociously, fearing the size of their proboscises which were so large that they could be felt penetrating the skin. The bulbous welts these particular mosquitoes caused felt like a poison imparted into the blood flow. The normal sized mosquito was so numerous that any attempt to shake them off was fruitless. As we headed ever further into the bush, they hounded us at every step. So insatiable was their appetite for blood that no nook or cranny of available human skin was left undiscovered. Every now and then one would fly into one of our ears, only to get caught up in sweat and wax and left fighting to escape. If this happened we were left with an incessant buzzing in our ears, only amplified like a loud speaker by its proximity to the ear drum. After two days in the Pantanal I removed my shirt to check the damage. My body was littered with hundreds of bites. I had clearly been defenceless, bitten through the tight weave of my shirt. A cold shower would have been relieving, except for the fact that it was an open shower inhabited with swarms of mosquitoes. I remembered the doctor’s advice before I left; that malaria did exist, but that this was a low risk zone so no medication was necessary. I pondered if it was a low enough risk to absorb thousands of bites without ill effect.

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The destruction of Syria’s heritage: The architectural treasures Syria’s conflict may cost us

The destruction of an 11th century minaret in the Syrian city of Aleppo (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-22283746) highlights the huge cultural, as well as human loss resulting from the conflict in Syria. I travelled to the country in August 2010, just several months before protests began early the next year. I recall sitting outside the grand citadel that dominates the Aleppo skyline, looking up in awe at the sturdy ramparts. I was jolted from my day dreaming by a man in flowing, pearl white robes; “What does this mean to you?” he asked, staring skywards at the citadel himself. I was taken aback by the frank question. However, as a history graduate who had dreamed of visiting Syria since studying the crusades for my A levels, I explained to him that this kind of archaeological heritage was something of a visual nirvana to me. We instantly found a topic that we both agreed on.

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The imposing gate that leads to to the Aleppo Citadel. The citadel dominates the Aleppo skyline. Humans have maintained a presence on this hill since at least the 3rd century BC.

It turned out that my new friend was an expert in local history and had led television crews around Aleppo’s sights. Acting as an impromptu guide, he gave me a comprehensive explanation of the city’s history. It is difficult to reconcile the tragic news that comes out of Syria today with my memories of the Syria I travelled through less than three years ago. Syrian people are some of the world’s most hospitable and travelling around the country was both easy and a pleasure. I often consider the fate of this man that so patiently and proudly explained the history of his city to me without asking for so much as a penny. I am certain that the destruction of his homeland’s architectural treasures would be a torturous loss to him.

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 A picture I took of a medieval souk in Aleppo in August 2010.

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A lane in the same souk complex in September 2012. Fighting between the rebels and government forces caused this fire to break out causing irreparable damage.

Upon hearing of the destruction of the minaret, I grew sentimental and searched through my photos from my 2010 trip. There, in all of its glory was a picture of the mosque and minaret; a tranquil scene far removed from the carnage seen in pictures released over the last month.

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A shot from inside the Great Mosque in Aleppo. The current structure dates between the 11th and 14th centuries, but the minaret was built around 1090. The mosque is a UNESCO world heritage site and reputedly holds the remains of John the Baptist’s father. In 2010 it was a haven from the hustle and bustle of the Aleppo streets.

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The mosque as it looks now with the minaret having completely toppled. The rebels blame a government tank shell for the destruction, the government say that the rebels blew it up with explosives. As of April 2013, the near millenia old minaret has been lost forever and will never be gazed upon by future Syrians and visitors alike.

Aleppo is far from being the only part of the country where historical and cultural sites are in danger of being lost or damaged. Five of Syria’s six UNESCO world heritage sites have been damaged in some way. The Crac Des Chevalier, a crusader castle that T.E. Lawrence described as ‘perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world,’ has been looted. Meanwhile, the exotic, ancient, oasis city of Palmyra is being slowly destroyed. It was here that the legendary Queen Zenobia rebelled against her Roman overlords. Now, nearly 2000 years on a rebellion of a different sort has seen government bullets sprayed into the Temple of Baal.

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 The Crac des Chevaliers – quite simply the grandest castle in the world. The 12th century crusader castle built by the Hospitallers has seen heavy looting since the start of the conflict.

Image Government and rebel troops are camped outside of the ancient city of Palmyra. One of the best preserved examples of a Roman city, stray bullets and shells have already hit collumns and temples.

In a country that seems like the crossroads of human civilisation itself, Damascus, the capital, sits at the very heart of that crossroads. Claimed by some as being the oldest, constantly inhabited city in the world, Damascus is like an archaeological trifle, layered with visible archaeological remains throughout. To walk through Damascus is to walk through a tapestry woven by many different rulers and civilisations. After all, Syria has played host to a variety of history’s big names. Alexander the great, the Romans, the Umayyads, Saladin and the Ottomans have all passed through at some point, and they have each left an indelible footprint on the city. Momentarily spared from much of the destruction that the rest of the country has seen, it is imperative that the chaos and damage that has afflicted Aleppo’s sites is not repeated in Damascus.

The centerpiece of Damascus is the Umayad Mosque, one of the planet’s most significant and inspiring buildings. Important to both Muslims and Christians, it supposedly holds the head of John the Baptist and is where Jesus Christ will return at the End of Days. History is literally layered on top of itself here. For example, the 8th century, gold laden Dome of the Treasury is built on top of ancient Roman pillars excavated from a building that stood previously. Meanwhile, the 12th century tomb of the legendary Islamic hero Saladin stands just outside.

Syrians have a remarkable sense of pride and reverence for their country’s remarkable history. For the sake of them and humanity as a whole, we must hope that the Umayyad Mosque does not end up as the burnt out husk that the Aleppo Mosque has now become.

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 One of humanity’s greatest achievements – the Umayyad Mosque. The exterior is lavishly decorated in gold. The depictions are said to be either of heaven or Damascus itself. The Prophet Mohammed never actually stepped inside the city himself. Legend has it that upon approaching the city he exclaimed ‘I only want to enter paradise once,’ and bypassed the city.

The Great Debate: What Camera Should You Take With You When You Go Travelling?

What camera equipment to take is an important decision for a lot of travelers out there, from young backpackers who need a quick snap on a night out, to professionals who take mass amounts of gear including huge (and expensive) full frame cameras. So on a personal note, cameras are very specific to an individuals needs.

I appreciate the ability to capture a high quality image, so I expect a certain level of fidelity from my camera. After all, the photos you take will be your way of reflecting back on your holidays. The actual act of photo taking is also a fantastic creative outlet and makes you truly observe and appreciate your surroundings.

Having said that, I also don’t want my camera to be to obtrusive. For this reason I have recently upgraded from an aging Olympus E620:

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The Olympus was hardly a large camera and for the most part I was happy with the image quality (Nearly all of the shots on the blog thus far are from this camera). However the format of this camera (four thirds mount) has now been killed off and no new ‘bodies’ (the camera part of the system, not including the lens) will be made in the future. Even though it was small for an SLR camera, I still found it too large and cumbersome. I believe a small camera is great for the following reasons:

– Saves on space and weight

– More ‘stealthy’

When I say more stealthy, I do not mean for taking shots of government installations! I believe it simply makes interactions with the locals in the country your travelling in more natural. I see a huge amount of tourists pointing massive SLR cameras in the faces of local people. This kind of tourism can feel more like a human zoo than a cross cultural experience and it is hardly a great way to get to know people. So whereas the weight doesn’t bother me too much, I really find a small camera ideal for getting candid shots and mixing with the local people without it feeling like I am on one side of the camera and them on the other.

The camera I have upgraded to is the Panasonic G3:

g3

This camera is actually already a generation behind, but the latest incarnation, the G5, is bigger and more expensive. The picture does not give the full impression of just how small and light this camera is. The camera has a ‘micro four thirds’ sensor and belongs to a group of cameras called compact system cameras or CSCs. They are relatively small in size but have large sensors which are important to capture more light and create higher quality images. I believe this range is absolutely perfect for travel photography for these reasons.

As well as the ‘G’ range from Pansonic, Sony do an NEX series (with an even larger APS-C sensor found in most SLR type cameras), Olympus do a PEN range and the very high specification OMD EM-5 based on the same micro four thirds sensors as the Panasonics, Nikon do the ‘1’ series, Canon do the ‘M’, Fuji do the ‘X’ series and Pentax do a miniscule, toy looking ‘Q’ camera.

The Panasonic was perfect for me because:

– The price is right (Cost me £265 brand new)

– Great selection of quality lenses and both Panasonic and Olympus micro four thirds lenses will fit

– Has an in built electronic viewfinder. You can only compose images on the back screens of many Compact system cameras as they do not have viewfinders (or if they do they are expensive external ones at £200 a pop). With a viewfinder you can compose an image at eye level and feel more connected with the environment. I find it imperative to have a viewfinder.

Of course if money was no object then I would buy an OMD EM-5, a camera which produces slightly nicer images, is weather sealed and has 5 axis stabilization built into the body of the camera (meaning camera shake is not a problem) :

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However, at over £1000 is it really 4x the camera! That’s a lot of travelling money right there. For some it may be, but I am simply not learned or professional enough to warrant this kind of cash on a camera.

I have given my reasons for choosing a compact system camera for travel. Many will disagree so let’s have a look at other available options.

SLR cameras are hugely popular. They generally have larger sensors than compact system cameras, but the image quality differences between the two is narrowing (some would say it is non existent with the best compact system cameras available). The main benefits are extensive lens selections, optical view finders built in and the ability to shoot fast moving action such as sports. Something like the Nikon D5100 is always going to beat my G3 in sports action as my G3 cannot focus on a target with the same precision. They are also generally better performers in low light situations where you may need to use a high ‘iso’ (iso regulates the sensitivity of the sensor. A high iso allows a higher sensitivity for low light shots but also produces more ‘noise’ – a grainy image):

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The downsides of SLRs are of course their heft and size, the fact you look like a massive tourist with one slung around your neck and their generally inferior video recording options.

Full frame cameras are too much for most people. They are generally for professionals or very keen enthusiasts who know a lot more about cameras than me and would not be reading this blog! They have huge sensors with high megapixel counts. You can therefore resolve a lot of digital in an image and blow up images to huge poster sizes without losing any detail. They are also highly customization  Here is the Nikon D800 that comes in at least a cool £2000. If you need absolutely the best image quality and cannot compromise then this is the one for you. It is however a weighty beast:

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Some compact cameras are getting very, very good now. A lot I simply wouldn’t bother with when travelling as modern day smartphones rival them for the most part so I won’t talk about them. However, the new breed of premium compact cameras that offer more functionality and larger sensors could be an excellent choice for most people. What they offer is simplicity and excellent shots in a small package. The cream of the crop at the moment is the Sony RX100:

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It has a large 1″ sensor and can take wonderful shots. The best thing about it is that it can fit in your pocket with ease and they say that the best camera is the one you have with you. It also has a ‘bright’ lens with a lowest aperture of 1.8. This means that it can let more light into the camera and also produce the nice blurred background effect that so many photographers crave. Of course, the lenses are not interchangeable so it is not perfect for every situation (you would not want to take this on safari ideally!). It also comes in at about £400 which seems quite expensive for a compact. What you are paying for here is the best possible image quality in a tiny package, and that comes at a premium. Other notable compact cameras come at a cheaper cost but with smaller sensors. The images they can create are still more than enough for most people though. The Olympus XZ-2, Pansonix LX7 and NIkon P7700. One to look out for in the future is the Fuji X20. Not only does this look like a stunningly cool retro camera, but it actually has a built in optical viewfinder which is quite remarkable on a camera this size. the viewfinder will even give useful information such as iso, aperture setting and shutter speed. It uses Fuji’s much talked about and praised ‘X-trans’ technology which helps produce visually stunning and realistic colours in images. I would love to get my hands on one some day:

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I just want to revert back to the attraction of the CSC (compact system camera) one more time. As well as offering the perfect balance of size weight and function, they are also very flexible and have interchangeable lenses. This means that the lens can be removed and replaced with another one more suitable for a particular type of photography. I recently purchased a 45-200mm telephoto zoom lens:

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This will allow me to get in close to objects that are a long way away. It should be perfect for snapping lemurs in trees for a planned trip to Madagascar later in the year. This kind of lens usually costs around £200. Panasonic often do cash back promotions that mean you can claim another £50 back and get this for £150 – not bad.

There are all types of lenses for all purposes, from ‘fisheye’ lenses that create a kind of warped perception that widens in the middle of the image, to macro lenses that are particularly good for focusing on things very close to the camera. Things can get very expensive when taking into account lenses, so consider that you buy into a ‘system’ rather than a camera. Once you’ve built up a lens collection you do not want to be switching to another brand as you will have to start over again. Only Olympus and Panasonic are interchangeable with each other.

I am currently hankering after a 14mm ‘prime’ lens. A prime lens has a fixed focal length meaning you cannot zoom. The advantage is that it has a fairly bright aperture of 2.5 and is capable of shooting at quite a wide angle which is perfect for low light photography and landscapes. It is also extremely tiny and very ‘sharp’ (the image has good edge to edge detail). I believe a setup with this little 14mm on the camera and the 45-200mm tucked away in the bag for long distance or nature shots offers the perfect low weight travel package. Don’t you agree that this looks just perfect for street ‘reportage’ photography? I look forward to using it in the future.

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Getting Rural in Romania

If Europe is all about its capital cities, where does that leave Romania? Bucharest, victim of the infamous former president Ceausescu, is largely a mixture of unglamourous concrete buildings and few truly worthwhile sites. This is hardly a surprise when you consider that a sixth of the city was bulldozed by Ceausescu to make way for his vanity project, the presidential palace. Ironically, this building is what now draws the majority of visitors to the city, afterall it is the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon and an impressive slab of marble in its own right.

 

However, to highlight the palace as the only site of Bucharest is to undersell the city. It is a cheap city and easy to get around. A couple of beers in the opulent Cera Cu Cere beer house is a must. The waitresses in peasant uniform may be slightly kitsch, but the stained glass and live violinists are anything but. The city also has its green lungs. Herastrau park in particular offers a worthwhile excursion from the sticky summer heat of downtown Bucharest.

But Romania is so much more than its capital. In fact, the more rural you are, the more authentic and enjoyable the experience will be. Horses and carts rule many of the roads in this country, and it is precisely this sense of a timeless, agricultural landscape that makes Romania an incredible destination.

 

The Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas – all grand and famous mountain ranges. Well, how about the Carpathians anyone? Thought not. To neglect the Carpathians though, is to ignore one of the planet’s unspoilt, beautiful wilderness areas. Forming a backbone through Romania and the province of Transylvania in particular, these pine clad mountains offer unique hiking and glorious vistas. Bears and wolves still roam these ancient untrammelled lands and best of all, you can be right in the midst of them after a three hour train journey from Bucharest.

 

Sinaia, offers a year round getaway to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. In the winter, you can ski, in the summer you can trek. The town has a kind of upmarket, Bavarian feel, probably enhanced by its Disneyesque ‘Peles Castle’.  Although referred to as a castle, it is anything but. Peles is truly a fantasy palace, straight from the pages of a fairytale book. There is no cold stonework to be found here. Pointed spires and wooden beams make up the outer walls, adorned with grand clock faces and golden murals. Statues of piccolo playing pixies sit in the garden. And the inside is even more impressive than the out. A marble statue of the archangel Gabriel watches over you as you climb the stairs. Moorish rugs, handmade samurai swords sourced from Japan and elaborate mirrors deck the various rooms and halls of the vast property – King Carol I, the castle’s patron certainly had ostentatious and exquisite taste. This was even the first castle in the world to be fully powered by locally sourced electricity!

Days can be spent in Sinaia getting the cable car up into the mountains and forging routes on the trekking paths.  However, when ready, another hour or two on the train will get you to Brasov. Romania’s ground zero tourist destination.

 

Brasov’s central town square is a great place to hang out. The Basillica Negra (black church) looms in the background, a medieval town hall mushrooms out of the centre and there is a hubbub of activity during the summer months. You can even get an aerial view of the square by taking the cable car up Mount Tampa. The walk down is via a lovely forested route. Brasov’s real asset though is its fantastic location. Easy, cheap, local buses make regular journeys to Rasnov, the site of a precariously purched and authentic medieval fortress, Bran, famous for its atmospheric castle dubbed ‘The Dracula Castle’ and Zarnesti, a small town perched on the edge of the glorious Piatra Craului National Park.

For nature lovers in particular, Zarnesti offers a less touristed but equally as beautiful alternative to Sinaia. We stayed in a local pension run by a family of priests and were cooked up delicious hearty food. Days can be spent wandering off between the two visible mountains from the town, through the gorge and up the numerous trails beyond. Other than a few sunbathing locals having a barbecue, you will barely see another soul.

When thinking about the planet’s great art treasure troves, Florence and Paris spring to mind. However, in the north easterly state of Bucovina, sit a series of monasteries endowed with glorious exterior frescoes. Despite being lashed with five hundred years worth of weather, the frescoes remain largely intact and miraculously vibrant. Voronet Monastery even has a colour named after it – ‘Voronet blue’ after the striking blue that colours much of the outside walls.

 

Built at a time when the Turks were invading from the south, most of the frescoes are religious in nature. Unique interpretations and images of the last judgement, purgatory and the Tree of Jesse fill the walls. The monasteries also offer their own individual tales. Suceava Monastery was supposedly built from the stone that one woman dragged uphill as a form of penance. At the same monastery a wall remains unpainted. Legend has it that the painter fell from his ladder to his death. No one from the superstitious local population were prepared to continue his work. Immaculately kept grounds and inner paintings as well as outer ensure that the monasteries are as fine and memorable as anything seen in Italy in France.

Much like Brasov, the pleasant Hungarian influenced town of Tirgu Mures makes an excellent base for exploring the surrounding area. An interesting place in its own right – the culture palace offers an exciting ‘hall of mirrors’, filled with stained glass – the real gem of the area is Sighisoara, easily reached by local bus.

 

Sighisoara is the archetypal medieval town; surrounded by walls on all sidess, each with a battlement that was traditionally maintained by a Saxon guild. The streets are highly cobbled, the churches impressive and an ornate clock tower with spectacular views  looms over the entrance. This is Dracula’s stomping ground, and you can even dine in the house where Vlad the Impaler was born (well, the same spot anyway, his house has long been replaced). The town has recently had a fresh lick of paint, inkeeping with the classic medieval look, but giving it some extra vibrancy.

Several small but interesting museums including the clock tower, the medieval arms museum and the torture museum are worth a look. A town cryer is employed by the city and there is a good chance he will seek you out at some point to welcome you to the city in the language of your home country! This tradition dates back to medieval times but can lead to a surreal experience when your sipping a glass of wine in the town square. The atmospheric, 17th century covered walkway up to an old German graveyard completes the authentic medieval feel.

Sighisoara is also a launch pad to do some horse riding in the local countryside; off the highway and down a dusty track near the village of Plod. This scenery and village life is about as rustic as you can get in Europe. It would take some travelling before you’d come across families living such a traditional, agricultural life style.

To find out how to see these sites and make this trip a possibilty, please see my guide

10 Day Romania Itinerary: Bustling Bucharest, Painted Monasteries and Atmospheric Transylvania

10 days to see many of Romania’s highlights? Sure, let’s start at the airport and work our way through this unspoilt, beautiful country.

Getting to/from Otopeni airport – Cheap and easy. Down the ramp from arrivals, get your tickets from the machine (8 lei for two – you must buy at least two in a time for some reason. You can use it either as a return or a single for two people.) Simply catch bus 783 (stamp your ticket on the bus) to the centre (it stops at both Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Unirii).

Bucharest – Little remains of its illustrious past, but Bucharest is the beating heart of the country and a worthwhile destination for a day or two. As the second biggest building in the world after the Pentagon, the Palace of Parliament is worth a look despite its sordid link to Ceauşescu. Explore what is left of the old quarter and make sure to stop in for a beer (6 lei) at Bucharest’s oldest beer house, Caru Cu Bere. If on a budget, walk straight up to the bar and take in the decadent surrounds and live violinists. Escape the concrete by heading to Herăstrău park for an afternoon.  Fortunately, getting around Bucharest is a cinch and cheap thanks to the basic but functional metro (8 lei for ten single journey tickets).

Catch a train to Sinaia from Bucharest. This is very much a worthwhile stop on the journey from Bucharest to Brasov. Many people choose to take in the surrounds and spend a few days hiking, but the real reason to visit is to see the fairytale Peles Castle. Train IR1645 leaves Bucharest’s Gare de Nord at 11:10 and arrives at Sinaia at 12:49 (38 lei).

You can get a taxi from outside the train station straight up to Peles Castle (approx 5-10 lei) or walk up (take the steps in front of the train station, then take a right up the road. Follow the path through forest and behind the small monastery (approx 45 mins).

Firstly, Peles Castle is not a castle, so don’t expect ramparts and canons. It is a palace and one of the world’s grandest at that. Magnificent spires and wooden beams decorate the outside, whilst inside has a fusion of worldy influences ranging from Italian to Moorish. Everything is decadently carved and opulently furnished. King Carol ! was not a man to do things in half measures. Depending on how you look at it, you have to fortunately/unfortunately take a guided tour to get a ganders at the interior. The basic tour (20 lei, 45 mins) seemed ample. Other more expensive tours are also possible (50 lei 1 ½ hour).

Train 3003 (33 lei) departs Sinaia at 16.49 and arrives at Brasov at 18:06 leaving ample time to take in Peles Castle and its glorious surrounds.

Hotel Adabelle proved to offer well situated, reasonably priced accomodation (although not well signposted). Mostly used by Romanians, the 130 lei a night for a double got you something better than you would find in the dorms. Brasov is a nice place to base yourself due to the wealth of sites in the surrounding area.

Spend a full day in Brasov. Take the cable car up to the top of Mount Tampa for great views (9 lei one way, 15 lei return). Getting the cable car up and walking down is recommended. See the Black Church and simply enjoy the buzzing atmosphere of the main, historic square.

An enjoyable loop of the surrounding area that takes at least two days is as follows. Take a taxi to Autogara 2 (bus station) in Brasov (6 lei from centre). Catch a bus to Rasnov. The buses have sign posts in the window that detail their itinerary so they are easy to catch. Pay on board (4 lei, half hourly, approx 40 minutes). After getting dropped off at Rasnov, take the steep walk up to the towering fortress that you will have seen on the highway in (and yes there is another Hollywood ‘Rasnov’ sign under the fort just like Brasov.) From the main square you can go through an un-signposted archway and rather simple gate. Otherwise you can follow the road around the back of the fort and walk up from that direction (the entrance is actually around the back of the fort). This way might be easier as after a little while you come to a car park where a tractor can take you the rest of the way by pulling a carriage on the back (4 lei).

Rasnov (admission 10 lei) is mostly in ruins, but well worth a visit for what feels like a lived in, historical hilltop fortress. As with much of Romania, the views are great and forested from the top and it is a pleasant place to spend an hour or so. Walk down via the path that leads down past the front of the fortress so you end up in the main square. Keep going straight (there is a tourist office on this road if you get lost) and over a bridge until you get to an unceremonious ‘pennymall’ supermarket. That corner is where the passing buses arrive. Hop on one that has the ‘Bran’ sign to continue your journey (4 lei, half hourly, approx 30 minutes).

Bran is a one street town with Romania’s possibly most famous landmark in the middle; Bran Castle (often dubbed Dracula’s castle). Of course, there is no evidence that this is the residence Bram Stoker intended to house his famous literary count in. The castle’s link to Vlad Tepes ‘the impaler’ (one of Bram’s inspirations for Dracula) is also tenuous at best. All of this seems irrelevant though as the castle does have a certain brooding atmosphere, at least from the outside. Unlike the hilltop fortress of Rasnov, Bran is completely renovated. It also sits on a mound rather than a towering hill, so access is easy. Recent price hikes have made it relatively expensive for a Romanian attraction (25 lei) and many leave disappointed by the blandness of the interior. There are no coffins or cheesy Dracula paraphanalia, but there are some interesting information boards inside (in English). It is a respectively humble castle that explains what it actually is, rather than what many want to believe.

From Bran, catch a bus to Zarnesti from the bus ‘station,’ a wooden shelter with adjoining fastfood takeaway. (8:10, 9:10, 11:10, 14:10, 18,10, 22:10, 7 lei approx 45 mins). Zarnesti is a modest town with one major asset; the Piatra Craiului National Park. Pensiune Fabius is a decent enough place to stay, just 100m around the corner form the bus stop (65 lei a room, meals 20 lei each). To get to the national park simply follow the mountains. A road runs straight up into the gorge between the mountains and the hiking trails that dot the place. The yellow marker follows a trail up to one of the peaks through a nicely wooded area. Spend however much time you want in the area and head back to Brasov (About six buses daily, we got one back at 16:50 12 lei).

From Brasov, shoot out of Transylvania to Suceava in Moldavia. Train IR 1751 leaves Brasov Station at 22:50 and arrives in Suceava at 06:45 (78 lei). Bus number 5 takes you from the train station into the centre (5 lei, get off at McDonalds). Suceava does not have a wealth of sites, but the fort and outdoor Romanian village museum are interesting enough. You can reach these via an overgrown path that runs down past McDonalds. A couple of pleasant, historical churches are also worth a look.

The real star of the show and the reason to come here, are the Bucovina Painted Monasteries; a series of monasteries unique for their frescoes that adorn both the inner and outer walls. They are tricky to visit via public transport, and really your only options are to take a tour or hire your own transport. Most places in Suceava offer a tour, but we went with Irene’s Hostel (100 lei a night for a basic double room, 120 lei each for a full day tour of the monasteries, not including lunch or entrance fees). Each monastery charges between 3-5 lei for entrance and a further ten lei photography fee. The two grandest monasteries are Voronet and Suceava,as they offer the most unique frescoes, so if you are on a budget, pay to photograph these.

Catch an early morning bus to Tirgu Mures (handily only 15 metres away from Irene’s Hostel! 8am, 52 lei, arrives at 14:45). The Ciao Hotel is right next to the bus station in Tirgu Mures which makes it very handy for day trips (139 lei for a double, including breakfast). It is approximately 5 lei to get a taxi into central Tirgu Mures, 1.5km from the hotel, or just walk. The stained glass in the Culture Palace is worth a look, displaying grandiose and vibrant images of local fairytales (10 lei).

After enjoying a while in the colourful, pleasant square of Tirgu Mures, head off to Sighisoara for a day trip. Maxitaxis depart hourly at ten to the hour from Tirgu Mures (11 lei, 1hr 15 mins). Confusingly, these do not leave from the main bus station, instead they leave from ‘autogara tam,’ a ten minute walk away.

Sighisoara is a beautiful Saxon town encapsulated in a citadel. See the three tiny museums (torture, medieval weapons, clocktower – 16 lei for all three) enjoy the freshly renovated main square and walk up the seventeenth century covered walkway to the looming church at the top of the mound. A good way to finish the day of medieval delights is a couple of hours horse riding at nearby cross country farm (http://cross-country.ro/  70 lei per hour of horse riding, 15km from Sighisoara, they will pick up for 8 euros each way). A trek through the nearby village of Prod is about as authentic and rural as you can experience.

Return maxitaxis to Tirgu Mures leave hourly at the same time as late as 21:50. From Tirgu Mures continue your journey overland or hop on a simple 45 minute flight to Budapest to visit Hungary. Flights also go to London Luton (www.wizzair.com  approx 25 lei to the airport by taxi from central Tirgu Mures).

For a more personal account of this journey please read my blog post.

Java’s Exotic, Timeless Temples

The Prambanan Temples

The largest Hindu temple complex in Indonesia; the towering temple dedicated to Shiva in the middle of the cluster measures 47m in height. Built to mark the transition from Mahayana Buddhism to Shivaist Hinduism, the building of the temple complex was started around 850 AD. The temples only enjoyed a short flurry or relevence under the Kingdom of Mataram before either a power struggle or the eruption of nearby mt merapi caused the court to be moved to East Java. A UNESCO world heritage site, Prambanan offers an awe inspiring expression of 9th century Hinduism.

The Temple of Borobodur

From a distance, this 9th century Mahayana Buddhist monument looks like a  great, stone slab. Only up close, when you notice the intricate carvings that cover every inch of the gargantuan walls do you realise that it is something much more delicate and thought out. In fact there are 2,672 reliefs and 504 buddhist statues on the monument. The reliefs form a multitude of stories and visions, like a flicker book of Buddhist beliefs. The pilgrims way follows these stories over the ascent of three distinct levels including ‘the world of desire,’ ‘the world of forms’ and ‘the world of formlessness.’ As you follow the way that snakes around the monument you begin to realise the colossal scale and ambition of the place. An area cut away the ground reveals the bottom of the monument, adorned with imagery of those who have sinned and are destined to live out another life as a lesser form. Borobodur is the ultimate expression of Buddhist philosophy and cosmology, a physical representation of the path to enlightenment. A main dome located in the centre of the top platform is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues in stupas, their tranquility and wisdom the ultimate human ambition.

Mendut Temple

Not far from Borobodur, Mendut Temple (9th century) is fascinating for its 3m high statue of Buddha. Interestingly, Borobodur, Pawon and Mendut temples lie in a perfect line. A working Buddhist monastery lies just several metres away from the temple, making for a spiritual place.

Rajasthan’s coloured cities, striped tigers and towering forts

Of all the classic journeys out there, the loop around Rajasthan from Delhi is one of the most magnificent. In three weeks it is possible to take in the world’s greatest monument to love (the Taj Mahal), wild tigers and fantastical coloured cities and palaces. From the bustling, cosmopolitan Jaipur, to the omnipresent fort in Jodhpur, to the sand castle like golden city of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan offers a Disney like collection of dreamlike cityscapes.

The Taj Mahal:

As synonymous with India as the curry, The Taj Mahal is often THE reason people visit the sub continent. Built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his third wife, Mumaz Mahal, it was completed in 1653. Glistening and spectacular, it is worth visiting at different times of the day, adopting several colours according to the position of the sun. A view from across the river from the back of the Taj Mahal is also worthwhile to escape the crowds. Although not in Rajasthan, the Taj Mahal is an easy visit as part of a Rajasthan loop.

 

Ranthambore National Park:

Seeing nature’s most charismatic animal in its wild habitat is one of the most thrilling experiences on the planet. Your first sign of black and orange stripes as a tiger saunters past is memorable and exhilarating. It is not all about the tiger either. While lacking the big game of east and south Africa, monkeys, deer, wild hogs and enough birds to make the twitching enthusiast faint with excitement fill the park.

 

Jaipur:

The capital of Rajasthan is a busy, urbanised city. The easy layout of the city along with its sights and history make it a favourable destination. The most obvious appeal of the city is that it is almost entirely coloured in a pinky hue. This makes the Hawa Mahal, a unique, beehive like structure built in 1799 to allow royal women to watch the streets below, all the more eye popping and grand. Jantar Mantar, an 18th century observatory displays a mind boggling array of universe watching devices that us non astrology types cannot understand. As a Unesco sight and one of humanities contributions to science, it is well worth a visit.

 

Jodhpur:

The blue city, Jodhpur is a pleasant place with an awe inspiring fort topped rocky outcrop erupting from its middle. Mehrangarh Fort is the fort par excellence in Rajasthan. Building started in 1459 and the fort now rises 400 feet above the city walls, its impregnable walls a symbol of great power. The rulers of Jodhpur have switched palaces to the more genteel but no less impressive Umaid Bhawan palace, on the city’s outskirts.

 

Jaisalmer:

Situated in the vast, hot expanse of the Thar Desert, Jaisalmer hits you like a dreamy mirage. As if created from the sands of the desert, Jaisalmer exudes an almost natural aura. The exquisite period dwellings called havelis are all finely carved. The fort itself, golden and spell binding, dominates the landscape under the ripples of the intense midday sun. The Jain temple inside the fort’s walls looks as edible as honeycomb. It is an evocative place that will long dominate your conscience. Outside the fort, camel treks to distant village communities in the desert, drinking chai and eating dhal are possible. An overnight trek at least is recommended. Sleeping on a sand dune under the starry sky with not another soul in sight is a little slice of eden.

 

Searching for the beginning of civilization in Syria

In the far flung reaches of eastern Syria, just several miles from the Iraqi border, lies one of the country’s most significant archaeological sites. In a land with the world’s oldest, continuously populated city, desert strewn Roman ruins and towering crusader castles, this is quite an achievement. I am talking about Mari, an ancient Mesopotamian city state on the Euphrates River.

To many, Mari is not much to look at. Mostly unexcavated and buried under ground, the untrained eye sees nothing more than a dense knot of muddy passages. Its simplicity belies an incredible past and significance. One of the most important cities in its day, Mari was a cultural power house and is said to have had the largest and most impressive palace of its time. When walking around Mari it is worth bearing in mind that excavations have been ongoing since its discovery by Bedouin nomads in 1933 and in terms of discovery, archaeologists have only uncovered the tip of the iceberg. In 2008, a French archaeologist noticed that, “each time a vertical probe was commenced in order to trace the site’s history down to virgin soil, such important discoveries were made that horizontal digging had to be resumed.” While Mari may not offer the golden opulence of the Ummayad Mosque or magnificent ramparts of Crac Des Chevaliers, by coming here you are witnessing archaeology in action.

Inhabited for 7000 years, Mari’s prominence rose greatly in 2900bc as a strategically important Mesopotamian city, linking together trade routes between Iraq, Syria and Anatolia (Turkey). However, it was a thousand years later under Zimri-Lim that Mari reached its pinnacle.

 

Zimri-Lim ruled Mari for an estimated thirteen years and was responsible for the extension of the palace. The palace was the envy of other kings and a dramatic demonstration of the city’s power. Zimri-Lim spent much of his time touring, forging new alliances and campaigning against enemies. He was not a simple, provincial king, but a ruler with widespread political influence. He married his daughters to local rulers and allied with the king Hammurabi to help increase his power base around the Euphrates.

 

We know about his life from a series of tablets excavated from the city. The sophisticated writing and documentation of events suggests a complex bureaucracy was in use at Mari.

When wandering the unexcavated halls and corridors of Mari’s great palace, one must look beyond the muddy interior. Archaeologists work in a nearby field, possibly moments away from the next big find. Besides from the occasional crunch of a shovel on the sun baked ground, the site is completely devoid of tourists and serenely silent. 4000 years ago these halls would have been abuzz with people and political discussion. The walls would have been painted in marvelous colour, most likely with pictures of religious deities such as Dagan, God of the storms. Outside, traders would be selling local dates and pottery from distant lands. Walking through Mari is a journey to the start of civilization itself.

A Trans-Flores Road Trip

The island of Flores is a microcosm of Indonesia as a whole. Towering volcanoes, idyllic beaches, unique wildlife, lush surrounds and fascinating cultures. With so much to offer, and with tourism set to engulf the island as it sweeps eastwards from Bali, there is no time like the present to visit.

The main sights are fairly easy to visit on a trip that traverses the Trans-Flores Highway. Distances are relatively short and the road is paved, but don’t let this fool you, travelling times are fairly long. The road is mountainous and windy with fantastic views but slow progress. Unexpected delays for workman chiselling waterways into the side of the road can be expected!

It is more than possible to cross the island using public transport, however, if you can get a group of four together then it is not a lot more to hire a car and travel with all of the flexibility that allows. For 550,000-600,00 rupiah you can hire a car and driver, arrange your itinerary and cross the island at your will. With flights between Bali and the traditional start and end points of Maumere and Labuan Bajo for between 600,000 to 1,000,000 rupiah a piece, Flores makes an exotic and accessible destination.

On the way you might see:

Kelimutu

Known by the local indiginous people as the resting place of spirits, Kelimutu is famed for its multi coloured lakes. The psychadelically coloured craters lakes of turquoises, greens and blues are impressive in their own right, but even more remarkably, they change colour every few months. The unique mineral composition of the lakes causes this unpredictable transformation. One lake has even been known to change from black to white. It is no wonder that this surreal transformation and the awesome scenery have led the local people to consider Kelimutu as the resting place of the dead.

Ende

There is nothing too special about this town but the dramatic coastline with its looming volcanoes make the transit through pleasurable.

Riung

Off the beaten path but utterly worthwhile. If your vision of Indonesia is simple village life, offshore islands in crystalline waters and a whole lot of nothing else, then this is your place. The offshore islands form the stunning Seventeen Islands National Park. For 300,000-500,000 rupiah you can hire a boat and visit a few of the islands. Hundreds of flying fox bats hang from bare trees on Kalong island before incongruously taking off en masse and blackening the sky with their vast wingspans. Pulau Bukit Tiga has a glorious, honeycomb stretch of beach and good snorkelling that you will have all to yourself.

Ruteng/Bajawa

Here’s the cultural heart of Flores. Tourists do make it here, but the villages and people remain traditional. Bajawa is an excellent base for village trips. A short trip to Bena brings you to a timeless village of thatched houses and elderly women weaving ikat on a hand loom whilst chewing betel nut. The menacing, grey slopes of Gunung (volcano) Inerie overshadow the village in the background. If your lucky, there may be a ceremony or festival going on nearby. While we were there, we went to a house warming ceremony at a village called Gurun Sina and were invited to enjoy local food in numerous houses where we feasted on buffalo.

Labuan Bajo/Komodo National Park

A dusty and dirty port town in a fabulous setting, Labuan Bajo is blessed with some fantastic nearby sights. The long urbanised strip is unremarkable, but the islets in the bay offer great sunsets and the nearby Komodo National Park offers some of the best diving in the world and the only place to see the charismatic komodo dragon. Please see the following post about the experience of searching for a komodo dragon: https://treadyourownpath.wordpress.com/2012/02/12/a-modern-day-dragon-hunt/